A border town brightly decorated with colorful Christmas lights
Maastricht is the oldest city in the Netherlands, located along the Meuse River. As the capital of Limburg, the southernmost province of the Netherlands, it borders Belgium and Germany, and its outskirts are home to rolling countryside, a rare sight in the otherwise flat Netherlands. The city has a history of being ruled by France and Spain, and it has a distinct atmosphere and character compared to cities in the western part of the Netherlands. Its history dates back to before the Common Era, with records indicating that it was originally a settlement established by the Celts. After passing through various periods of rule, Maastricht became part of the Netherlands in 1815, following the country’s formation, and remains so to this day.
I visited the city in December, right during the Christmas season, when the nights are the longest. Despite the long hours of darkness, Maastricht’s streets were filled with festive cheer, illuminated by numerous Christmas decorations and lively markets, creating a warm and bustling atmosphere.
Walking through the city center, one encounters dazzling lights from the traveling amusement park that excite children, festive light decorations adorning streets and squares, and the illuminated architecture of churches and buildings that delight visitors.
Even after stores close, the lights of window displays remain on, allowing the products to be showcased. This not only acts as good advertising but also contributes to the overall brightness of the streets, enhancing safety and comfort for those walking through the city at night. With the streetlights floating above the center of the road, they add to the ambient lighting, ensuring a well-lit and welcoming environment after dark.
Along the way, I discovered a home goods store that exclusively sold Philips LED lamps—no surprise, as Philips is based in the Netherlands. Their presence is certainly felt here.
Despite the winter chill, which can drop to around 5°C, many people were enjoying warm wine while chatting at outdoor terrace tables. Dining outside in winter would be almost unthinkable in Japan, but here in Europe, it’s a common scene. Just imagining it makes me shiver!
The infrared heaters installed in parallel with the terrace seats were accompanied by warm, red LED lighting. This red-colored light is common throughout the city. As a single hue, it bathes everything in a warm red tone, making everything—especially food—appear in shades of red. Although this lighting may not be ideal for showcasing food in its most appetizing form, it certainly creates a sense of warmth and comfort that fits the European culture of enjoying hot wine outdoors during cold weather. This distinctive use of red light is a local tradition in itself, contributing to the unique lighting culture of the region.
The Most Beautiful Bookstore in the World: Boekhandel Dominicanen
If you ever have the chance to visit Maastricht, one place you absolutely must see is Boekhandel Dominicanen (Dominicanen Bookstore), which was named one of the “Most Beautiful Bookstores in the World” by The Guardian in 2008.
This building, originally constructed in the 13th century as a Dominican monastery and church, has a fascinating history of multiple changes and reconstructions. Over the centuries, it has been under the control of various nations, undergoing cycles of destruction and restoration. After its time as a church, the space was repurposed for many different uses, including as a warehouse, event venue, music hall, and even—believe it or not—a slaughterhouse! In 2006, after undergoing a renovation by a Dutch architect, it was transformed into the stunning bookstore it is today.
The combination of history, architecture, and books makes Boekhandel Dominicanen a truly unique and must-visit destination in Maastricht.
The majestic Gothic architecture of this building is characterized by its elegant, arched ceiling, and although slightly faded, the ceiling paintings remain intact. The black structures displaying the books are not made of wood, but black steel. Despite being over 700 years old, the stone pillars and structural elements are preserved and integrated into the design, coexisting with modern features. The design makes excellent use of the church’s vertical scale. As you ascend the stairs, you can look down on the entire church from different elevated viewpoints.
The lighting primarily consists of two elements: the light illuminating the bookshelves and the upper lighting that highlights the architecture. The light bounces off the surfaces, creating an overall sense of brightness. Since the building was renovated and reopened in 2006, there are still many existing light sources such as fluorescent and halogen lamps, but the ambiance remains soft and serene.
As you move deeper into the bookstore, you’ll find a café located in the back. This space was originally where the choir used to sing, and it still benefits from an abundance of natural light. The indirect lighting emerging from behind the sofa backs harmonizes beautifully with the space, allowing visitors to relax and enjoy a luxurious moment.
In Japan, bookstores are usually bright, bustling spaces filled with countless rows of books. However, it is rare to encounter a bookstore with such a luxurious and tranquil atmosphere like this one. If you ever get the chance, I highly recommend visiting Boekhandel Dominicanen—it’s an experience that combines history, architecture, and literature in a way that few places can.
Falkenburg Christmas Market
Just a short train ride from Maastricht, there is a small town called Valkenburg. When you think of Europe, you often imagine Christmas markets lined with many stalls, and in Valkenburg, there is a unique “Cave Christmas Market” held from November to early January. Inside a massive cave, cafes and various shops are set up, and due to its originality, it has been repeatedly ranked among the best Christmas markets in the world. It is so popular that people from around the world organize tours to visit, not just from Europe.
To enter the cave, an admission ticket is required. I visited in the morning, so there weren’t many people, and I didn’t have to wait much. However, when I exited the cave, there was a long line, so I recommend visiting earlier in the day.
Inside the cave, it was much more spacious and open than I had imagined. The texture of the walls and ceiling, as if carved from the rock layers, was impressive. The spotlights placed at various points further emphasized the shadows and contours of the cave.
The light sources varied, including incandescent beam bulbs, fluorescent lights, discharge lamps, and LEDs. However, the lighting in the stalls was mostly uniform in warm yellow tones, creating a cozy and inviting atmosphere. Between the shops, there were accent Christmas illuminations and sculptures, adding to the visual delight of the visitors.
Rather than having the entire cave lit up, the light from the shops leaked out from various spots, giving the impression that visitors had to rely on those lights to navigate through the dim surroundings. The lights shining in the darkness of this extraordinary, lightless world created a sense of anticipation and excitement, making visitors wonder what lay ahead.
At the market, there were many items such as Delft pottery, Christmas decorations, and various sweets on display. I couldn’t help but be drawn to the lighting, so I didn’t buy much, but even so, it took me nearly 30 minutes to make my way through the cave. The market is set up in a part of the cave, which, by the way, stretches an impressive 27 kilometers in total! There’s certainly a lot to take in.
Throughout its long history, Maastricht has been a crossroads of various cultures and rulers, and it has weathered all of these changes. As the city looks toward the future, it will be fascinating to see how new ideas and technologies will merge with the existing culture and architecture, and how lighting, along with other elements, will evolve. Maastricht is definitely a city I look forward to keeping an eye on as it continues to grow and change.