The northernmost capital city in the world, serving as the base for tourism in Iceland
Reykjavik is the capital of Iceland, located at the northernmost latitude of 64.8 degrees as a capital city. With a population of around 210,000 in the metropolitan area, about two-thirds of the country’s population resides here. This makes it a hub for tourism in Iceland, with numerous hotels and restaurants concentrated in the area.
Iceland is a small country with a population of approximately 300,000, yet it boasts a high GDP per capita and strong international competitiveness. The country’s primary industry is fishing, with exports of cod, capelin, and other fish playing a vital role in its development and growth for many years. At one point, the financial sector was poised to become the country’s dominant industry, but the global financial crisis of 2008, triggered by the Lehman Brothers collapse, led to a sovereign default and a sharp devaluation of the Icelandic króna, which significantly impacted the lives of Icelanders.
However, the devaluation of the króna had a silver lining. It caused a rapid recovery in export industries like fisheries, and the weak currency brought significant benefits to tourism. Since then, Iceland has enjoyed a high economic growth rate compared to other EU countries.
There aren’t many airlines that fly to Iceland, but if you’re going, Icelandair is highly recommended. Although not all flights feature them, if you’re lucky, you might get to board a plane decorated with an aurora borealis design, as shown in the picture. The lighting inside the aircraft is not a fixed color, but rather uses individually controllable color lights that mimic the changing colors of the aurora. While it’s not a large plane, it’s a unique experience you can only have here in Iceland!
[Icelandair – Have you seen inside the world’s first northern lights plane?] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iocTGyU33CM
After landing at Keflavik International Airport and taking a 1-hour ride on a bus, you’ll arrive in Reykjavik, a city that thrives along the coastline.
The first time I visited Reykjavik was in the heart of winter, in January. The name “Iceland” often brings to mind images of an extremely cold land, but thanks to the North Atlantic Current and the westerly winds from the south, the winter climate is surprisingly mild, with temperatures hovering around 0°C, which is actually quite warm. In some regions, Hokkaido, Japan, which can reach temperatures as low as -20°C, feels much colder. On the other hand, summer temperatures are hard to raise, and in August, the average temperature only slightly exceeds 10°C at its warmest.
Though unassuming, the city’s monuments quietly rise into view
Upon arriving, I immediately set out to explore the city of Reykjavik at night, and I couldn’t help but feel a sense of safety that is often lacking in other European countries. Walking around and taking photos at night is not something one can do easily in many places. While it’s not typically dangerous in Japan, in foreign countries, especially in Europe, there is always the risk of robbery or theft. Reykjavik, frequently ranked as one of the safest cities, lived up to its reputation—walking alone late at night, I never once felt unsafe.
At the center of Reykjavik stands Hallgrímskirkja, a church that has become a landmark of the city. Unlike the atmosphere of luxurious, ornate churches typically found in Europe, this church is designed in an expressionist style inspired by lava basalt columns, making it a unique and striking structure. It is also the tallest building in Iceland. At the top, there is an observation deck, which requires a fee, but offers a panoramic view of the city.
The lighting inside is somewhat uneven, with some discharge lamps not functioning and a bit of light inconsistency. However, the vertical texture of the embedded barred slabs on the floor emphasizes the straight lines, and when viewed from a distance, the church appears to gently rise above the hill, softly illuminated.
The church interior can only be visited during the short daylight hours, so I made a point to return. Inside, there were no chandeliers or spotlights—just natural light pouring in from the windows, softly enveloping the entire space. What I loved about this building was its atmosphere, which doesn’t rely on artificial lighting but instead welcomes and embraces the natural light. I truly appreciated that.
Along the coastal promenade, there is a famous piece of artwork called the Sun Voyager (or Sólfar in Icelandic). Literally translated, it means “Sun Voyager.” When you think of Iceland, you might think of the Vikings, and this modern art piece, designed to resemble a Viking ship, serves as a monument for Reykjavik’s 200th anniversary. It has become one of the most popular spots in the city. The body of the sculpture is made of stainless steel, and because it reflects the sky and the sea, it is said to take on a beautiful golden hue at dawn or sunset, as it captures the orange light of the sun.
When I visited at night, there were no people around (as expected!). So, I had the opportunity to freely explore the piece. The only lighting was a single white discharge spotlight next to the monument. At the time, I didn’t fully understand its purpose. However, when I took a photo, I noticed that the monument reflected the golden glow from the sodium streetlights, making it appear to float in the dark. The addition of the white spotlight provided a nice accent. Although it might be tempting to add more lighting, I felt that this simple approach—incorporating the surrounding light and using the white spotlight as a subtle accent—effectively brought out the monument’s charm.
If I were to be more specific, with the advancement of LED technology, which allows for finer control over lighting and miniaturization, it might be even better if the light could be focused only on the object, without spilling unnecessary light onto the floor or surrounding structures.
Along the coastline, there were many apartments. Similar to the Netherlands, I noticed that many of the residents don’t close their curtains. This means that their activities are visible from the outside, but since the view across from them is the sea, they likely don’t need to worry much about privacy. In fact, it might be much more valuable to bring in sunlight, the colors of the sunset, or even the view of the aurora into the living space. The luxury of enjoying the majestic natural light from your own room is truly something special.
Icelandic architecture, where natural light and space intertwine, created by the master of light
Another famous architectural landmark in Reykjavik is the Harpa Concert Hall & Conference Center. This building features a distinctive glass façade inspired by basalt rock formations (columnar basalt), which are commonly found in Iceland. It was designed by Danish international architect Henning Larsen and completed in 2011.
Henning Larsen is often referred to as the “master of light,” and his works, which meticulously calculate the interplay between light and space, have received global acclaim. His designs often focus on how natural light, flowing through ceilings and windows, reflects off floors and walls, enveloping the space in a harmonious way. These carefully crafted architectural compositions have earned high praise worldwide.
The glass façade of the Harpa Concert Hall & Conference Center features a texture with irregularities, as the front is composed of a square column grid made of iron frames. In contrast, the side walls are completely covered with flat glass panels. Upon closer inspection, you’ll notice that colored glass panels are randomly placed throughout the façade.
While the glass alone does reflect light, most of it passes through into the interior. However, the colored glass strongly reflects certain parts of the light spectrum. Rather than reflecting sunlight uniformly, this design allows light to refract within the structure, creating a shimmering effect akin to the way light sparkles off a crystal’s surface. The building is not just about light reflecting off the surface, but about capturing and enhancing the play of light and color in a dynamic, artistic manner.
The glass façade of the Harpa Concert Hall changes its appearance over time. Not only does it reflect the clear blue sky, but as the day progresses, it absorbs the changing colors of the sky—reds, oranges, yellows, and purples during the evening—gradually transforming and taking on those hues itself. This creates an architectural design that beautifully integrates with the natural beauty surrounding it.
At night, the interior lighting transforms the building into a large light box, with the illumination spilling outward. Color lighting is installed along the iron frame’s sides, creating a media façade that mimics the reflective light seen on the surface of ice when illuminated, giving it a dynamic visual effect.
One particularly striking feature inside is the honeycomb-structured ceiling. In photos, the ceiling appears to glow, but this is due to the high brightness of the floor, which reflects off the mirrored texture of the ceiling. Some of the honeycomb panels have spotlights directed downward, creating a strong sense of brightness. It’s an interesting and seemingly contradictory method—lighting the floor to make the ceiling appear brighter—but it’s a clever and effective play with light that makes perfect sense in this context.
The changing sky, unlike anything seen in Japan’s usual experience
Reykjavik itself is not very large, so it is common to either join a bus tour to visit nearby attractions or rent a car and explore the surrounding areas while using Reykjavik as a base. After strolling around the city, I also joined several tours.
In January, Reykjavik is incredibly dark. When I lived in Glasgow, I was also surprised by the difference in daylight compared to Japan, but in Iceland, the contrast is even more striking. Even after 8 a.m., having breakfast by candlelight in the dark was a rare and unique experience.
Once the tour began, we were taken to several awe-inspiring natural sites around Reykjavik, such as the Hellisheiði Geothermal Power Plant, the Geysir Hot Springs, and the Gullfoss waterfall, where we could feel the power of nature firsthand.
The bus ride was quite long, and even as I gazed out the window, the sky remained dark for a long time. It wasn’t until about 11 a.m. that it started to brighten up, and even when the sun reached its highest point, the atmosphere resembled that of Japan’s evening. By 2 p.m., the sun had already begun to set. The bright hours passed by in the blink of an eye. Experiencing such a lack of sunlight made me realize how much we take the sun for granted, and I was reminded of its invaluable presence.
Additionally, Iceland is known for its rapidly changing weather. From clear blue skies to sunlight diffused through thin clouds, and even whiteout conditions in a snowstorm, I had the opportunity to witness the diverse beauty of natural light in its many forms.
Iceland means the Northern Lights! Go in autumn for the best chance!
After the tour ends and night falls, it’s finally time for the Northern Lights tour! Depending on the tour package, the cost ranges from 4,000 to 10,000 yen, and these tours run daily from August to April. Since the Northern Lights are unpredictable, if you don’t see them on your first tour, you can join the same tour for free as many times as needed during your stay until you finally catch a glimpse.
However, I wouldn’t recommend going in January. The weather is often bad, with thick clouds covering the sky, and even if the aurora is visible above, it’s often hidden from view. The hotel receptionist also mentioned that this period is not ideal for seeing the Northern Lights.
The Northern Lights are caused by solar wind plasma particles colliding with oxygen and nitrogen in the atmosphere, causing them to glow. As such, it’s not only weather-dependent, but also influenced by solar wind strength and the Earth’s magnetic field. Even if the sky is clear, all conditions must align for the aurora to appear—it’s truly a random phenomenon.
Despite several failed attempts due to weather, I wasn’t able to see the aurora during my first 5-day stay. However, I tried again in September, and the photo below shows the result. Typically, the aurora is faint, but this time the forecast predicted an intensity of 6, and when the aurora appeared, it was so bright that the entire Icelandic landscape lit up.
The term “curtain of light” perfectly captures the essence of the aurora, as the faint light sways and shifts in the sky. I had never seen such a dynamic green light in nature before, and when I witnessed this aurora, it was truly an emotional experience. By the way, September isn’t too cold, so you can comfortably stay outside for long periods, making it an ideal time for aurora watching.
Iceland has countless other attractions that I can’t fully describe here. I’ve already visited Iceland three times and am planning to go again soon. This time, I was in Reykjavik, but if I get the chance, I’d like to report on Iceland from a different perspective.