The “Venice of Scandinavia,” a representative city of the region
Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, is the largest city in the Nordic countries, with a population approaching one million. Surrounded by abundant nature, Sweden is a pioneer in environmental policies and is known for its clean air and water, making it a highly livable city. Stockholm, a “city of water” made up of 14 islands, is also known as the “Venice of the North” and is said to have inspired the setting of the famous Studio Ghibli film Kiki’s Delivery Service.
Famous landmarks include the beautiful streets of Gamla Stan (the Old Town) in the city center, and the “Forest Cemetery” (Skogskyrkogården), designed by Gunnar Asplund and Sigurd Lewerentz, which has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. In addition, numerous architectural marvels captivate the hearts of visitors to Stockholm.
The city is home to thriving industries such as finance and IT, with globally recognized companies like Spotify. Swedish furniture and textiles, known for their Nordic design, are also popular in Japan, and Stockholm has produced many world-renowned brands and artists. These elements of design and art can be found throughout the streets of Stockholm.
While the positive aspects of Stockholm are often highlighted in Japan, the city is not without its challenges. The rise in crime rates due to the large influx of immigrants following the Syrian conflict, along with a shortage of housing and a complex rental system, has led to skyrocketing apartment rents, becoming a serious social issue, particularly in Stockholm.
For lighting design education, Stockholm is the place to be!?
Stockholm is located at a high latitude of 59.2 degrees north, similar to Iceland and Scotland, meaning that summers here are long and winters are short in terms of daylight hours.
While we may not be as conscious of this in Japan, the amount of sunlight and the brightness of the sky significantly affect our health. The internal rhythm that connects us to natural light is often referred to as the “circadian rhythm.” In Stockholm, where there is a large difference in the amount of daylight between summer and winter, this rhythm is something that can truly be experienced firsthand.
In the summer, the sky remains light even past midnight, and people tend to stay out late, enjoying the long days with drinks or social activities. On the other hand, in winter, the dark hours of the day stretch on for much longer. There is even a condition known as “seasonal affective disorder” (SAD), where people feel lethargic and depressed due to the lack of sunlight. To live in high-latitude regions like this, the key challenge is how to make the most of the “dark winter” and find ways to enjoy it.
In fact, I was also personally interested in experiencing the impact of sunlight, which led me to consider Sweden as my first destination for studying abroad. At the time, there was KTH (Royal Institute of Technology) just south of Stockholm, offering a one-year Master’s course in Architectural Lighting Design (though the campus has since moved). I thought it was an ideal environment, and I worked hard with this goal in mind. The course is incredibly attractive, drawing students from all over the world, with diverse nationalities and backgrounds.
[KTH – MSc Architectural Lighting Design]
https://www.kth.se/en/studies/master/architectural-lighting-design/
It feels nostalgic now, but I still remember how I contacted Professor Jan Ejhed, who leads the course at KTH, and made an appointment in advance. During my preparation period for studying abroad, I created a PowerPoint presentation, boarded a plane from Japan, and presented it in broken English. Long before the development of LED light sources, and at a time when architectural lighting design was not widely recognized, Professor Ejhed had been teaching at KTH, sharing the charm and joy of designing light with many students.
Unfortunately, I wasn’t so lucky, as my study abroad coincided with the time when the professor retired. The course was temporarily suspended, and I ended up studying in Scotland, a different field altogether. Since then, the campus has relocated, and someone else has taken over the architectural lighting design course. Up until then, it was not uncommon for Japanese students to study architectural lighting design at KTH through regular and exchange programs, and many have gone on to become active lighting designers after graduation.
Until around 2011, there was a time when tuition fees were free, but as the number of students from outside the EU grew, putting pressure on Sweden’s finances, high tuition fees were introduced for students from non-EU countries, such as those from Asia and Africa. Additionally, due to the previously mentioned housing supply issues, the hurdles for studying abroad have been increasing year by year. However, Stockholm remains one of the top destinations for studying lighting design, with lighting furniture and design exhibitions, as well as lighting-related symposia organized by KTH and the University of Wismar in Germany, making it a great place to consider for those looking to study the field.
The Stockholm Public Library, where soft light spreads throughout
When visiting Stockholm, one place you definitely should not miss is the Stockholm Public Library, designed by Gunnar Asplund and completed in 1928, which is often regarded as one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. As you ascend the narrow staircase with subdued lighting, you are led into the central reading room, which is cylindrical in shape and features bookshelves stretching 360° across the walls. The grandeur and beauty of the space are truly breathtaking. It’s hard to believe that this stunning piece of architecture, a prime example of Nordic Modernism, was designed nearly a century ago.
At the Stockholm Public Library, the indirect lighting that illuminates the books and the upper-directional lighting installed above the bookshelves softly enhances the entire space. One’s attention is naturally drawn to this beauty, but these lighting effects were likely not part of Asplund’s original design when the library was completed in 1928. This is because such lighting effects—particularly those that illuminate the space with the expansive, high-powered light sources like fluorescent lights—would not have been possible at the time. In 1928, incandescent bulbs were still dominant, and high-efficiency, bright fluorescent lights weren’t developed until after 1940. Therefore, it’s likely that these lighting features were added during a later renovation.
Around the upper part of the cylindrical reading room is a 360° window, designed in such a way that natural light enters the space no matter where the sun is positioned. The angle and intensity of the light change depending on the time of day and season, which I imagine was intentionally designed to alter the character of the space.
That said, the lighting plan for this central reading room is remarkable in how the fixtures blend seamlessly into the architecture, subtly vanishing from view. Only the light stands out, gracefully illuminating the bookshelves and the open space. The effect is stunning, and it clearly highlights the sculptural beauty that Asplund created. (It is unfortunate, however, that some of the lamps are burnt out—possibly due to maintenance issues.)
When you get closer and take a look, you’ll see that the light sources are fluorescent tubes. The lighting boxes that illuminate the bookshelves have louvers, ensuring that they are not visible from the side. In some places, two light sources are used, with light also escaping from the top of the boxes, creating a soft, even glow. Other details, such as the rounded corners in the self-study rooms where the walls and ceiling meet, help to reflect the natural light softly, contributing to the overall sense of warmth and harmony in the space.
In the future, the library will likely undergo further renovations to accommodate modern needs, including the transition to LED lighting. It will be fascinating to see how contemporary values are added to this historic treasure, and how this blend of old and new will be passed on to future generations.
The faintly glowing nightscape of Stockholm
If you walk about 10 minutes from Stockholm Central Station, you’ll reach the historic Gamla Stan (Old Town), where the Stockholm Cathedral, Riddarholmen Church, and the Royal Palace stand side by side. The cobblestone streets and the charming, retro cityscape make Gamla Stan the heart of tourism in Stockholm, a place that never fails to captivate the many visitors and is an iconic part of the city.
In winter, the sun sets around 4 PM, and as night falls, the buildings gradually emerge, illuminated by soft lighting. After attending a lighting symposium held in Stockholm, I wandered around the Gamla Stan area, exploring the city’s lights, and I couldn’t help but feel something slightly different from the usual lighting scenes I had seen before.
In other countries, it’s common to see buildings brightly lit from below, with dramatic lighting creating a lively atmosphere. However, in Stockholm, I noticed a lack of such striking, intense lighting effects. Instead, the city seemed to be bathed in soft, gentle light that caused the entire area to subtly emerge from the darkness. The Riddarholmen Church, located on the island to the west of Gamla Stan, is one of the tallest and most iconic buildings in the area. Rather than being highlighted with harsh light to emphasize its contours, the church was gently illuminated with soft shadows, blending harmoniously with the surrounding buildings.
For me, the city of Stockholm is the origin of my deeper interest in lighting design, and it remains one of the most memorable cities I have visited. The lighting in the streets and buildings is rarely excessive, and that restraint is what makes it so beautiful. The light identity of the Nordic people teaches us that lighting is not just about adding brightness and making things stand out; sometimes, it’s about subtracting light and carefully crafting shadows to create depth and nuance.
If you ever have the opportunity to visit Stockholm, don’t miss out on experiencing not only the beautiful daytime cityscape as the “Venice of the North,” but also the subtle, comforting atmosphere of the city at night.