The city of flowers, where Islamic culture remains deeply ingrained
Córdoba is a historic city in the Andalusia region of Spain, with a population of around 350,000. Located along the Guadalquivir River, this city once thrived as the capital of the Almohad Caliphate. In the 10th century, Córdoba reached its peak, becoming the center of Western Islamic culture and one of the largest cities in the world by population at that time.
Afterwards, Córdoba experienced internal strife and division, and in the 13th century, it was incorporated into the Christian kingdoms. However, the people of that era, upon seeing the beauty of the remaining Islamic architecture, recognized it as a remarkable culture that they could not create themselves, and the city became a unique place where different cultures blended together.
Córdoba is also famous for its maze-like Jewish Quarter, where whitewashed houses adorned with numerous flower pots line the narrow streets. These areas were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1994, and they continue to captivate many tourists with their enchanting charm.
The Mezquita, where different religious architectures blend together
The word “Mezquita” means “mosque” in Spanish and is said to have originated from an Arabic term.
The Mezquita in Córdoba refers to the Catedral de Santa María de Córdoba (the Cathedral of Saint Mary of Córdoba), which is a unique architectural wonder, as it is a mosque that became a Christian cathedral. It’s an intriguing fusion of Islamic and Christian elements.
In fact, the Mezquita was originally constructed as a mosque in 785. However, after the Catholic Christians gained control in the 13th century, chapels and altars were added inside, and it was repurposed as a Catholic church. In the 16th century, further renovations introduced Renaissance-style elements, expanding the building even more.
Thus, this remarkable structure carries a blend of Islamic and Christian cultures within a single building, making it a one-of-a-kind architectural treasure that continues to be passed down through the ages. One of the most striking features inside the building is the “Forest of Columns” in the Mezquita.
The double-arched structure, alternately built with red bricks and stone, is composed of 856 columns (increased to 1,012 during the conversion into a Christian church). This vast array of arches creates the illusion of an endless expanse.
The ceilings between the arches are decorated differently in various areas, and the lighting fixtures installed there also vary. The lighting was primarily oriented upwards, with pendant lights hanging from above and spotlights highlighting the textures of the ceiling decorations. Of course, in the 10th century, there was no electricity, so it’s likely that candles and torches were used to provide a soft glow from below, casting a warm, flickering light on the interior.
The windows, in comparison to the scale of the building, seem relatively few. Because of the limited natural light entering through the windows, the overall brightness of the interior is subdued. The light that streams through the windows is not soft and diffused but rather the intense, glaring light typical of the hot and dry days of Andalusia, directly entering the interior.
As a result, geometric patterns from the window decorations cast shadows on the floor and walls, while colored light filtered through stained glass creates vibrant, noticeable accents. These elements contribute to the overall atmosphere, becoming one of the key features of the space.
The stained glass, in true Islamic architectural style, is adorned with beautiful geometric patterns.
The expression “arabesque,” referring to these geometric patterns, is based on the Islamic prohibition of depicting human figures, a form of idolatry. The arabesque, often extending infinitely, represents a transcendence beyond the visible material world and is commonly seen in Islamic architecture, such as in mosques. The seemingly infinite space of the “forest of columns” may be another representation of this concept.
Of course, today it is a Christian cathedral, and there are statues of Christ on the cross, angels, and other Christian icons. Originally, the Mezquita, which could have been destroyed by Christians at any time, has endured because of its sheer beauty. Given its remarkable preservation over more than a thousand years, the fact that it has survived makes perfect sense.
Christianity and Islam are two of the world’s largest religions, and the existence of both, so distinct in their beliefs, within a single space is truly a remarkable and extraordinary phenomenon. The historical value of such a place is unquestionably immense.
The night-time Córdoba reflected in the gentle flow of the river
The historic district of southern Córdoba is home to the Guadalquivir River. Along this river, you can find landmarks such as the Mezquita and the Alcázar, as well as numerous ruins like the Roman Bridge, constructed during the Roman era, attracting many tourists.
Perhaps due to the slow flow of the river during my visit, the water’s surface reflected the sky as if it were a mirror. As the sun set, the ruins, including the Mezquita, began to glow with lights. The lighting used for the buildings emitted warm-colored light around 3000K in color temperature, causing the entire historic district to glow in a unified, harmonious hue.
Buildings that serve as symbols of the city are illuminated with soft light, maintaining a distance between the light fixtures and the structures, allowing them to gently emerge. Depending on the angle of view, some light fixtures might be placed in such a way that their light is directly visible, so further attention to glare control might be needed. However, overall, the lighting creates a unified atmosphere.
As you enter the streets, the streetlights installed directly on the building walls create a lively ambiance. While they do not directly illuminate the outer walls of the Mezquita, the color temperature is consistent with the surrounding lights, and the nearby city lights subtly contribute to casting a soft glow on the Mezquita’s walls.
The streetlights installed in the historic district are designed to cut off all upward light, focusing primarily on illuminating the ground surface. This thoughtful design ensures that the city lights do not interfere with the enchanting nighttime atmosphere of Córdoba, reflecting a clear effort in urban planning to control lighting in a way that preserves the charm of the city’s landscape.